Friday, December 27, 2013

2005-08-20-wok-1

How to Choose The Right Wok

Friday, October 14, 2011 | By:

You might not know it but cooking the wrong dish in the wrong wok can lead to murky sludge and bitter disaster. One Chinese netizen posts her frustrations, “Rust keeps appearing on the bottom of my iron wok, but I’m afraid the chemicals in non-stick or carbon woks will poison my food. Plus I hear the iron in iron woks is good for the blood. What kind of woks are you all using?” Clearly, choosing a wok isn’t as simple as picking the cheapest shiniest one off the store shelf. Follow this guide and know how to choose the one that’s right for you.

When looking at woks the first thing you might notice is all the different handles they come with. Some have two small metal loop handles on each side. Some have a long stick handle on one side and a loop handle on the opposite side. Others simply have a single long metal or wooden handle. All handles serve the same purpose—to lift the wok off the burner—so choose based on your own techniques and preference. Skilled chefs prefer the long handle as it allows them to toss easily. Always remember to test the weight of a wok before you buy. If it’s too heavy for you to handle, then choose a smaller one or one made from a lighter material, you certainly don’t want to sprain your wrist frying an egg!

Size
A typical family-size wok is 14 inches in diameter (suitable for a family of three or four). But woks can be found as small as 8 inches and as large as 79 inches. Smaller woks are usually used for quick stir-frying at a high heat. Large woks, over a meter wide, are mainly used by restaurants for cooking rice or soup, or for boiling water.

Bottoms
Depending on what type of stove you have, you’ll need either a flat bottom wok or a round bottom wok. Flat bottom woks are best for cooking with an electric range. But if you cook on a gas range, the round bottom wok is a better choice. The flames can wrap around the bottom and sides allowing for even heat distribution.

Material

Woks come in cast iron, aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel and non-stick coatings. Each have their own advantages and purposes.
Traditional Chinese woks are made of cast iron. Thick and heavy, the iron wok (铁锅 tiěguō) takes more time to heat up, but it conducts heat evenly and retains heat longer, which makes it perfect for stir-frying vegetables. For a healthy fry, wait until the oil is hot; drop the vegetable in and stir-fry quickly at high heat for a short time to minimize the loss of nutrients. Chinese netizens claim that an iron wok is a good choice as traces of iron dissolve into the food and help boost your blood cells.

Ideal as an iron wok seems, it has several drawbacks. Iron rusts easily so remember to dry the wok thoroughly before and after use. It is also recommended to avoid cooking acidic foods such as tomatoes in an iron wok. Chinese foodies claim the acid can react with the iron and generate a harmful byproduct. And, if you don’t want to see your green bean soup to turn nasty black, don’t boil green beans in an iron wok

A good alternative to the iron wok is the stainless steel wok (不锈钢 búxiùgāng) which is rustproof and doesn’t have chemical reactions with acidic foods.

Aluminum woks (铝锅 lǚguō) are a thinner and lighter choice. Although an excellent heat conductor, aluminum does not retain heat as well as cast iron or carbon steel. Aluminum is also soft and not as durable. If you are looking for something light, a better choice is carbon steel (碳钢锅  tàn’gāngguō) which is thin and durable and can endure high temperatures.

Coated with Teflon, the non-stick wok (不粘锅 bùzhānguō) is ideal for steaming, stewing or boiling, but avoid deep frying, pan frying or stir frying dishes with it. At those temperatures the non-stick coating will break down into the food. Use this type of wok for making things like rice porridge. Fill the wok with ten cups of water and add one cup of rice. Bring to boil, reduce temperature and let simmer for an hour until the rice is thick and gooey. Great if you have the flu, upset stomach or relieving those inevitable Chinese banquet hangovers.

How to Season a Wok: The Science behind it and Step by Step instructions


Video on how I seasoned my new Wok

Why I Walked the Way of the Wok

My mum has not bought a wok for the last 30 years or so.  For as long as I can remember, she has always been using the same cast iron wok since I was a kid.  I, on the other hand, have been changing woks every one or two years because my teflon/ceremic woks get from non-stick to all-stick over time.  So one day I decided that enough is enough.  From now on, it's One Man, One Wok.

The other reason that I got myself a traditional Wok was because I have been wanting to do some Wok experiments for the longest time.  I wanted to chase the elusive Wok Hei and learned the art of capturing it.  For that, I needed not just a Wok, but some serious fire power.  I have ever toyed with the idea of being able to bottle liquid Wok Hei like how they bottle liquid smoke.  Just imagine frying rice at home on your kitchen stove with Wok Hei aroma with just a few squirts of Liquid Wok Hei!  It would be the beginning of a new epoch of Chinese home cooking! If you know of any professor of food chemistry who can help me understand the science of Wok Hei, please write to me at leslie.tay@gmail.com.


Buying A Wok

In order to start my experiment, I first needed to buy a Wok.  There are many types in the market.  Broadly speaking they can either be made from Carbon Steel or Cast Iron and can  have either a long handle or two short handles on each side of the Wok.  You can choose between a machine spun one or a hand beaten one and between having one with a round bottom or a flat bottom.  So many choices, where to start?  Thankfully, with the help of Grace Young's book "The breath of a Wok"¹  I managed to narrow down my choice.  She recommended a 14 inch, flat bottomed, carbon steel wok for the home cook.  So with that in mind, I went a Wok hunting at where else, but my favourite kitchen wonderland, Sia Huat.

I eventually bought myself a 14 inch hand hammered, Carbon Steel, round bottomed Cantonese style wok (two short handles).  The reason I bought a round bottom instead of a flat bottom is because it is much easier to use a ladle or a spatula on a round bottom as the curved edge fit perfectly on a round bottom wok.  Also it is easy in Singapore to buy a wok stand to place on top of your stove to support the wok.  I chose a hand hammered Carbon Steel wok because each hand hammered wok is unique and the hammering makes the wok more durable.  I also chose one where the carbon steel is relatively thick such that the wok is not easily deformed with just your hands.  I chase Carbon Steel because it heats up and cools down very fast, unlike a Cast Iron wok which keeps its heat.  I also wanted to be able to toss my Hor Fun over my stove and a Carbon Steel wok is lighter and more durable and will not shatter like a Cast Iron wok.   I was thinking of getting one with the long handle as it would make it easier to toss but the problem is that they tend to be less stable.  At any rate, I have seen many chefs doing the "pao" with the short handle wok and a Good Morning towel, so I went for the short handle one.

Seasoning the Wok

There are many theories on how to Season a Wok.  People have told me all sorts of things from rubbing pork fat to frying chives and ginger in it.  I wanted to do it properly and the only way was to first understand the scientific basis of it.   The first thing I did was to consult my bible on cooking, namely "On Food and Cooking" by Harold Mcgee.  In it, Mcgee² said that the basis for making a cast iron pan non-stick was to create a patina by heating oils in the pan at high heat.  This causes the oils to break up into fatty acid chains which then re-combine with to form a smooth, non-stick polymer surface.  With that in mind, I set out on my research and found this excellent article on the Chemistry of Cast Iron Seasoning which pretty much explained what I needed to know about wok seasoning.

Based on what I understand, here are the different steps I took to season my wok.

1.  First, wash the wok thoroughly in hot soapy water and steel wool to remove the industrial oil used to protect the wok from rusting.

2.  Heat up the wok on high heat to blacken the new steel.  What is happening here is that you are trying to create Fe3O4 aka "Black Rust" or magnetite. "Black Rust" is protective and prevents corrosion and also enables the fatty acid polymers to bind strongly to the metal.  Keep rotating the wok over the fire to blacken the whole wok.

3.  Once the wok is sufficiently blackened, turn off the heat and let it cool down.  Don't add oil immediately or the oil might just burst into flames.  Trust me,  it happens. (Just imagine me in a cartoon scene with my face all black and hair singed holding a bottle of oil in my hand) All you need is the wok to be sufficiently hot so that the pores of the metal open up to allow the oil to seep in. 

4.  I bought a bottle of flax seed oil specially for seasoning the wok because flax seed oil is a "drying" oil which means that when it dries, it hardens into a lacquer like substance.  Flaxseed oil aka Linseed oil was used in the past as a sealant for artwork. Hey if it works for Rembrandt, it works for me!  Flaxseed oil is quite expensive and is available at health food stores.  In retrospect, I think it would have worked quite well with soybean oil or corn oil which, according to Mcgee², are both highly unsaturated oils that are prone to polymerization. Once the wok has cooled down a little but still hot, wipe a thin layer over the wok using a paper towel and tongs.

5.  Next we heat up the wok on medium heat to cause the oil to break up into fatty acid chains.  Rotate the pan so that each part of the wok will turn into a bronze colour signifying that polymerization is taking place.

6.  Give the wok a good wash and scrub with hot water and repeat the process 3 to 5 again if required. I did this as an extra step which is not really necessary but it wasn't hard to do and I just wanted to add an extra coat.

7. Once you have burnt the oil into the pan, give it a good wash with hot water.  After washing the wok, I first fried some Chinese Chives in the wok.  Traditionally, this was used as the only step in seasoning the wok.  I did this as a first fry because, according to Young¹, the sulfer containing compounds in Chinese chives have antibacterial properties although she suspects that the amount is too small to make any difference.  Practically, frying chives in oil is a cheap and easy way to spread the oil over the wok and the Cantonese way of saying gao choy sounds like ceung gao which means "long life".  I am not superstitious, so personally, it's just a bit of acknowledgement of the Wok tradition.  You can of course omit this step and go straight into cooking whatever you like.

8.  Once the wok is seasoned, it is washed only with water and a natural bristle brush.  Soap and scouring pads should not be used after this as it will remove the patina.

Conclusion

I am very happy with my new wok.  It is durable and I can use my spatula to cling clang on the wok without fear that I would scrape off the non-stick coating.  I have tried cooking all sorts of stuff like Hor Fun and eggs and it really is non-stick most of the time.  If something does stick, you can simply turn down the heat and scrape it off with a spatula.  The durability of the carbon steel means I can use the edge of my wok stand as a fulcrum to toss my food quickly over high heat without fear of damaging the bottom of the wok.  This two thousand year old invention, doesn't need to be reinvented with Teflon, it is time tested and perfect as is.  No more non-stick woks for me! I am now a conservative One Wok Man.


Acknowledgements
Thanks to Silverchef for providing the original soundtrack for the video.


References:

1.  The Breath of a Wok:  Grace Young and Alan Richardson, Simon & Schuster, 2004
2.  On Food and Cooking: Harold Mcgee, Scribner, 2004, Pg 790-791

3.  Chemistry of cast iron seasoning:  A Science-Based How-to 
 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-25449219

The restaurant that serves up rejected food

27 December 2013 Last updated at 00:07 GMT 

Rub & Stub restaurant in Copenhagen is battling against waste - by serving up food that the supermarkets won't sell.

The restaurant offers meals made from vegetables and fruit rejected by the food industry because of sell-by dates and over-buying. 

The restaurant has two paid employees - a project manager and head chef - but all the other staff are volunteers. It is funded by Danish charity Retro and profits go towards development projects in Sierra Leone. 

Chef Ditte Jensen told BBC News why she believes it is possible to make delicious meals from rejected food. 

Video production: Cameron Robertson